Qatar flexing muscle in changing world

In one of Doha’s most distinctive districts, Souk Waqif, about 20 women were selling delicious homemade food one recent evening – stews, curries, spicy crepes and Arabian coffee.

All the women wore abayas – a traditional, long black Islamic garment – and most wore shaylas – a long scarf that is wrapped around the head – as well, a reminder that despite Doha’s image as a glitzy centre of Western-style skyscrapers, Qatar is still a conservative Muslim society.

Like neighbouring Saudi Arabia, the royal family of Qatar and most indigenous Qataris follow the ultra-conservative Wahhabi school of Islam, but society in Qatar is more accepting of the role of women, says newspaper columnist Reem al-Hamri.

“I can drive; I can hold any position I want. Everyone is equal, women can be leaders,” she says.

“For me wearing this – the abaya and the shayla – if it’s going to cover my body and my hair, it’s not going to cover my mind, my ideas.”